Paris's covered passages were the world's first shopping malls — built in the 1820s, mostly forgotten, filled with stamp dealers, vintage bookshops, and an extraordinary tearoom that feels like a dream sequence.

Pigalle cleaned up its act in the 2010s and became something interesting — part red-light nostalgia, part neo-jazz scene, part cocktail culture. We do all three in one evening.

Three rooftop bars — a Montmartre terrace, a Right Bank modernist building with an unlicensed bar, and one legitimately secret access point — with the best view of the city at dusk.