Rome's nightlife isn't in the Centro Storico — it's in Pigneto and Ostiense, where the locals actually go. We do an aperitivo hour, three bars, and end up at a live music venue that books jazz and electronic in the same week.

Rome isn't just ancient — MAXXI is one of Europe's best contemporary art museums and most visitors never go. I take you through the collection and then through the galleries in Pigneto and Ostiense that are showing the most interesting work happening right now.