Satwa is the Dubai that the tourist board doesn't talk about — a South Asian and Middle Eastern working neighbourhood that has the best food in the city and has somehow survived every redevelopment plan. We eat, walk, and I explain why this neighbourhood matters.

Dubai nightlife is not what you expect — yes, there are Burj Khalifa views and champagne towers. But there's also a warehouse district with underground events, a rooftop bar with no Instagram presence, and the best late-night shawarma in the Middle East.